Route Description
The proposed route begins on the ground, mid-way along the center of the North Face, at a distinct off width crack formed by a large flake. The entire route is an independent line, from base to summit.
The first pitch is approximately 105 feet. It starts off with two bolts of 5.8 climbing through a wide-crack, before a featured and short bulge. Passing this bulge into the dark slab above is the distinct crux on the route (mid-5.11). The rock in this section is solid, and the route follows intricate features on bullet dark stone. Following the crux, the route meets up with an angling strata that continues up and right, along the diagonal features. This section is enjoyable 5.9 – 5.10 climbing. After the angling strata, the route follows giant huecos up to the mid-way tree on the Direct North Face (P1 anchor). We suggest an independent 2-bolt anchor adjacent to the tree, to minimize climbers’ impacts on this lone tree.
The whole route’s proposed grade is mid- 5.11.
Pitch 2 is approximately 90 feet and leads off directly above the tree, and to the right of “Thanatos.” It follows the steepening wall above across diagonal strata-features. The crux is continuous, thin, intricate face climbing over two bulges (5.11a) that leads to the summit area. The position and climbing on this pitch is spectacular, with the West Overhang looming 20 meters off to the climber’s right, and the Boulder skyline off to the left.
Route diagram
[fha_images gallery=”route_diagrams”]
Existing route information
The Northerly aspects of the Maiden has 6 existing routes, listed below left to right (East to West):
East Ridge: 5.10c. A multi-pitch route that is mostly traditionally-protected, with 2 protection bolts, and an additional 2-bolt anchor.
Thanatos: 5.9+X. A rarely climbed journey on the North Face, above the mid-way tree. This climb is sparsely protected (deserving of an X-rating), and has one fixed pin.
North Side of the Sky: 5.11. The proposed route.
Cunning Stunt: 5.10d. One long traditionally protected pitch, or two short ones, where the second
intersects with the Direct North Face. 3 fixed pins.
Direct North Face: 5.9R. A long, wandering pitch with one fixed pin that leads to the Crow’s Nest bolted
anchor.
North Face (Standard Route): 5.7R. A multi-pitch route. This sparsely protected route is mostly a traverse
across the vast North Face, with 3 fixed pins across the traverse.
West Overhang: 5.11c. A steep, overhanging traditionally protected climb up the West Face that leads to
a 2-bolt anchor that serves as the primary descent off the Maiden’s steep West Face.
[fha_images gallery=”existing_route_diagrams”]
Approach
The approach trail as it leaves the Mesa Trail.
The approach for this route follows the established trail to the Maiden. At the base of the East Ridge, follow talus up the North side of the formation, past Dream Street Rose up to the base. This is the same trail used to access the existing routes on the North side of the formation. The entire trail leading up to the base is a durable surface of sandstone talus.
[fha_images gallery=”approach_photographs”]
Descent
There are two options for descending the route: 1) the standard rappel down the West Overhang to the Crow’s Nest. 2) The route itself can be descended in 2 rappels with a 70-meter rope. The descent on trail is identical to the approach.
[fha_images gallery=”descent_photographs”]
Climb base area
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Reconnaissance work
Top Roped / Hazards
Additional notes
The proposed route will be a high-quality addition that rounds out other climbing in the area. The two proposed anchors would also enable an independent descent that would ease potential congestion on the standard west overhang rappel. It also allows a descent back to the north face which will reduce erosion from people rapping the west overhang then south face, and then having to hike back around to the north to retrieve gear.
[fha_images gallery=”additional_app_photographs”]
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