Trad Kreem Piton Upgrade

The crux of the route Trad Kreem (5.10-) is currently protected by an old fixed piton in questionable rock, with possible severe consequences if the piton pulls out. The applicant proposes to either replace that piton with a new piton, or to place a bolt nearby and remove the piton. As far as recorded history goes, the first known ascent of the Trad Kreem corner was likely done by Chris Beh and Owen Silver in 2010. However, when they started up the route, there was an old fixed piton in a crack near the base of the route. The piton (a Chouinard/BD baby angle) protects the overhanging 5.10a crux, and failure of the piton would likely cause the leader to hit a large ledge below. It is possible to place a small cam (blue tcu or blue Alien) just below the piton, but it is in the same questionable rock as the piton (see photos).

The applicant used a hammer to test the piton and surrounding rock because it appeared that the rock to the right of the piton was questionable. Tapping on the piton gave a reasonably reassuring ring, but tapping the nearby rock caused some concern. The applicant believes that the two seams shown in the photos contribute to the rock on the right side producing a hollow thud. The piton and the cam rely on the integrity of this flake. The piton holds body weight, and might hold a small fall (such as the one that would occur if you fell making the long move to the end of the crux), but the applicant feels that the piton is marginal at best.

Trad Kreem is a trad route (i.e., requires trad gear) at a crag that is predominately a sport crag, though several of the sport routes here do require a few pieces of gear, so it is not unrealistic for people to bring a light rack. At 5.10-, the route is also easier than most of the routes at the crag, and serves as a decent warm-up for the harder routes in the area. The move protected by the piton is a long 5,10- reach, on steep rock, off small holds. As stated above, if the piton (and/or the cam) pulled out, it is likely that the leader would land on the large ledge below, though perhaps a very attentive belayer might be able to keep you off the ledge using the first bolt on Whipping Post. This, bolt, below the piton, is however not ideally positioned to protect the crux of Trad Kreem, even though you clip it before clipping the piton. It protects a leftward-traversing move on Whipping Post that occurs very close to the bolt, so a ledge fall from that route is much less likely.

The applicant does not have strong feelings about either proposed solution, but is submitting this application to create a discussion that will lead to a reasonable solution. If a bolt is approved, he will place a ½” x 4¾” stainless Powers Bolt, with stainless-steel hanger. The approximate location for the bolt is marked by a dot of chalk in the photos. Exact placement will consider the reach of shorter climbers, to ensure that they can reach the bolt before doing the crux moves.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved pin-for-pin replacement.

OSMP Decision: Pending