The proposed route is on the West Face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus, on the Undertow ledge. It is an 85-foot 5.11c and has been redpointed on toprope. The route starts with about 25 feet of moderate rock (a No. 2 Camalot protects if you wish) that bisects the approach ledge to Undertow. At the ledge there is an obvious spot for a first bolt to protect the leader from a ground fall at the first 5.7 bulge (no opportunity for natural gear). Above this there is a short section of low-angle rock approaching another break/ledge and then the upper wall.
The next 50 feet to the anchor uses 6 bolts, climbing with 5.11a/b moves past 3 bolts to a good rest and a fourth bolt, then the 11c crux past a final 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
This route will be a worthwhile addition to the West Face of The Slab, and the applicant proposes to use half-inch stainless-steel hardware. At 11c it fills in a gap for easier routes. It climbs an independent line 15 feet away from the nearest route, Hippotamus (10d). The climbing is on mostly solid edges and pockets with aesthetic movement up a slightly overhanging section of rock. The route needs minimal cleaning and the staging area is along the existing trail at the base to the cliff.
FHRC Overview of the application: Postponed until Sep ’11 cycle.
Voting Results: Pending
OSMP Decision: Pending
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