Big Bob Cranks

Description:

I propose installing anchor bolts with chains/rings directly above the end of the primary difficulties on Big Bob Cranks in order to avoid approximately 20 feet of low-angle slab climbing that is out of line (rising traverse) and character with the rest of the pitch.

Area:

Lower southwest face of Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain.

Detailed Description:

The existing route, Big Bob Cranks (5.10a, 2-stars, 5 bolts, 70’, probable late 80’s/early 90’s FA, unknown party) climbs through five bolts. Climbing from the ground to the fourth bolt is direct and sustained at the 5.8 – 5.10 level on vertical to overhanging terrain. The climber then leaves the steep face and pulls onto the low-angle slab of the south face and ascends the slab (5.4-5.5) for approximately 10’ to clip the fifth bolt and then ascends another 10′ up the slab (5.4/5.5) to the 2-bolt chain-anchor atop Tracks Are For Kids (10b, 2-stars, top-rope anchors only, 55’, probable late 80’s/early 90’s TR FA, unknown party).

This chain-anchor is set far back on the low-angle slab and causes damaging rope-drag when lowering or top-roping Big Bob Cranks or Tracks Are For Kids. 3’ slings must be used. The anchor bolts are old, rusted and, at the very least, will be removed and relocated to reduce rope-drag while TR’ing Tracks Are For Kids. Note that another application has been submitted on this page to install five protection bolts to turn Tracks into a safe lead climb.

I propose placing anchor bolts directly above the end of the main difficulties found on the vertical wall. Eliminating 20’ of 5.4 – 5.5 climbing does not alter the primary character of the route. The new location will permit unhindered lowering and top-roping without damaging a rope. I will use ½” x 2 ¾” camouflaged, stainless steel bolts and hangers. Lowering chains/rings will also be camouflaged.

Comments:

Yes to new anchor.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending