Neph Son

Route Description

Neph Son climbs the right side of the severely overhanging prow/buttress on the central/left side of the west face of Hillbilly Rock, right of the existing climb Uncle Dad, which climbs the prow via its left side. Because of its severely overhanging nature, with trees behind, and lack of directional gear, the route has only been inspected on rappel. However, the applicant was able to closely inspect the route along its entire length by staying clipped into the bolts on Uncle Dad as directionals, then lowering out into space to get a look. Neph Son will climb a vertical 30-foot lower face (~5.12) on nice dark rock to the point where the wall steepens. Here, a difficult rightward traverse on undercling flakes (~5.13) leads to the base of the “purple eye” pothole-like feature in the middle of the wall; a difficult crux getting past and over the eye (~5.13+) along its left side leads to the radically steep headwall, which is featured, with solid rock and larger holds, along its length (~5.12+). The route will move up this headwall onto a lower-angle finishing arête (5.10/5.11) before ending at anchors at the lip of the wall.

The climb is approximately 100 feet long.

Route diagram

[fha_images gallery=”route_diagrams”]

Existing route information

The west face of Hillbilly Rock has four existing climbs. The leftmost one is Horsefly Hootenanny, a 5.13- on the upper left side of the west face, which has a shared start with Uncle Dad (5.13b) for the first three bolts. Then there is the proposed climb, Neph Son, 10 feet right of Uncle Dad. Then the West Face (5.12c) is located down and right another 30 feet, and the rightmost route (West Face Right; 5.12a) is located another 50 feet downhill near the southwest margin of the wall. All are sport climbs, though West Face Right does have some moderate traditionally protected climbing to reach the first bolt.

[fha_images gallery=”existing_route_diagrams”]

Approach

The approach is via NCAR. Take the Mallory Cave Trail to the Mesa Trail, head south to where the Mesa Trail traverses Skunk Canyon. Head west into Skunk Canyon on the climber’s approach trail, then, 100 yards into the canyon, head due north up the first gully, between Hillbilly Rock and Ridge 1, to reach the west side of Hillbilly Rock on an existing climber’s trail. The trail is on durable, hard-packed dirt and talus.

[fha_images gallery=”approach_photographs”]

Descent

The descent is via lowering off the route back to the staging area, and via the approach trail.

[fha_images gallery=”descent_photographs”]

Climb base area

[fha_images gallery=”base_area_photographs”]

Reconnaissance work

The route has been inspected on rappel and some holds were grabbed on toprope/rappel; given the steepness of the wall, lack of directional gear (there are no cracks on the lower sections), and proximity of tall trees (dangerous for toproping) behind the line, further inspection could not be safely carried out.

Top Roped / Hazards

The route has not been toproped, but some holds have been grabbed while lowering off Uncle Dad. There are a few small flakes in the “purple eye” feature that need to be removed, but the route is otherwise on solid rock. It is extremely overhanging throughout its length.

Additional notes

This is the most direct and likely the most difficult line on the west face of Hillbilly, and will likely be 5.13+ or 5.14-. It is long, aesthetic, sustained pitch on excellent rock.

[fha_images gallery=”additional_app_photographs”]

FCC Voting Results

OSMP Decision