Touch Monkey, New Lower First Bolt

Description

Add a new, lower first bolt to the existing climb Touch Monkey

Area

West face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Detailed Description

Touch Monkey (5.11b) is located on the west face of the lower tier of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain. The climb begins with 20 feet of 5.10 climbing, and then encounters a tricky 5.11 overhanging bulge to the anchors.  The first bolt is located 20 feet above the ground in the overhanging section, and is only clippable from a very awkward stance, by reaching out into the overhang while unprotected from a groundfall. (There is the possibility for a very marginal small TCU and slinged thread, through a fragile hole in the rock, but neither option comes until you’re almost to the bolt and neither should be relied upon to prevent a groundfall.)  The scary first clip deters people from doing this climb, and is risky for those not comfortable at the grade.

Applicant proposes adding a new, lower bolt at approximately 12’ above the ground, or 8’ below the existing first bolt, on a vertical panel before you move into the roof.  The bolt would be placed such that the lower awkward 5.10 stand-up move would be protected, as would the stretch-out to clip the first bolt in the overhang.  This addition will make Touch Monkey significantly safer and more enjoyable to users, and bring the total number of bolts to five, which is appropriate for a 50-foot climb. It will also give good protection for shorter climbers as they stretch for the high first clip, in the roof, as well as provide a backup against any potential groundfall should the original first bolt fail. The applicant has spoken to the first ascentionist, Paul Glover, and he approves adding the lower first bolt.

Comments:

No, do not add a bolt.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending