Flatirons Climbing Council

The Yellow Door

—

by

in , , , ,

Route Description

The proposed route, The Yellow Door, is a two-pitch route located on the North face of Seal Rock that climbs across two natural features – a long arching roof on the first pitch, and a prominent dyke that splits the middle of the North face headwall and forms the second pitch. 

The first pitch starts at the very lower left corner of the north face and climbs thin vertical ground up and right for ~70’ under a long roof before pulling over the roof and finishing on a slab. This pitch is long and continuous, with a pump factor at the roof (11+/12-, ~100 ft). 

The second pitch climbs up to and traverses across a yellow dyke that extends across the full expanse of Seal Rock’s North face headwall (visible from the city of Boulder). This pitch is also long, continuous and pumpy, with several difficult and technical sections (13-, ~100ft). Because the second pitch climbs on a dyke feature (hands on the protruding dyke, feet underneath), it feels steep and climbs like a modern sport climb until the dyke ends and the climb exits on the final ~15’ slab of Archaeopteryx.

Natural gear is used at the beginning of the first pitch and end of the second pitch. For those looking for a pure sport climbing pitch, it will be possible to finish the second pitch of Yellow Door on Sea of Joy, climbing through the crux of that climb and adding a letter to the grade.

Route diagram

[fha_images gallery=”route_diagrams”]

Existing route information

The North Face of Seal Rock has 2 existing routes:  Sea of Joy and Archaeopteryx.  Sea of Joy is a 3 pitch 5.13a sport route in the middle of the North Face.  Archaeopteryx is a 3 pitch 5.11+ traditional route on the right side of the North Face, approximately 40 feet from Sea of Joy.  The Yellow Door would cross Sea of Joy in the middle of the 3rd pitch, and would finish on the final 15 feet of Archaeopteryx.  However, it would not interfere with or change the character of either route.  The proposal has been discussed with the first ascentionists of both routes, and in both cases permission and support for this proposal has been granted.

In the case of Sea of Joy, Richard Rossiter has granted permission and support for the proposal.  Note that the top half of the 3rd pitch of Sea of Joy (crux section) would offer an alternative finish to the second pitch of The Yellow Door and would increase the difficulty of this pitch by a letter grade.

In the case of Archaeopteryx, both Jeff Achey and Roger Briggs have granted permission and support for the proposal.  Importantly, the proposal does not include any fixed hardware that is accessible from Archaeopteryx, so the nature of this bold and historic climb will not be impacted.

[fha_images gallery=”existing_route_diagrams”]

Approach

The approach is up the designated trail to the base of Seal Rock, and then up the climbers trail to the North of Seal Rock.  This is the same trail as is used to access the existing climbs on the North face of Seal Rock (Sea of Joy and Archaeopteryx), and also serves as the descent route for popular routes on the East face of Seal Rock.

[fha_images gallery=”approach_photographs”]

Descent

The descent is from the rappel anchors on Sea of Joy (40 feet East of the summit), and then down the normal descent for all routes on the North and East faces of Seal Rock, as described above.  Alternatively, climbers can down-climb Shortcut on the East face, which exits at the break on the North.  This puts the climbers right back at the start of pitch one.

[fha_images gallery=”descent_photographs”]

Climb base area

[fha_images gallery=”base_area_photographs”]

Reconnaissance work

Yes, great care was taken by the submitter to ensure a high quality route that optimizes the natural features of the face and also respects the existing routes established on this wall.  The route was inspected over seven days, with many variations attempted, and all moves climbed.

Top Roped / Hazards

The route has been cleaned, loose rock has been removed, and all moves have been climbed.

Additional notes

[fha_images gallery=”additional_app_photographs”]

FCC Voting Results

OSMP Decision

—

by

in , , , ,

Comments

16 responses to “The Yellow Door”

  1. Matt Samet Avatar
    Matt Samet

    To me, knowing that you could “bail left” to a bolt or two from the long runouts on Archaeopteryx onto this new sport pitch would markely diminish the experience and commitment on Archaeopteryx. I wonder why, with all the potential out right on those other headwalls, this would be the first route applied for on the North Face of Seal? Is there some reason the top pitch on this needs to cross two other existing lines instead of staying out left on the long, clean panel left of Sea of Joy? This doesn’t seem very well thought out, and even with the FA parties giving consent I’m hard-pressed to say “yes” to this climb.

    1. Phil Gruber Avatar
      Phil Gruber

      See reply below…

  2. Matt Samet Avatar
    Matt Samet

    To clarify, it looks like the climbing itself is probably great, and the FA party has clearly put their time in, but it would nice if the app clarified more about why this path must be taken versus other options that don’t cross those two climbs or potentially change their character. Would there truly be no possible way, if scared on the runouts on Archeopteryx, to get over there? If the two routes intersect, then they must share holds that would in theory allow one to “bail out,” but maybe not – again, the app doesn’t clarify.

    1. Phil Gruber Avatar
      Phil Gruber

      Matt, I can understand your comments, particularly given that the route description was missing from the initial application post – my bad. I have provided a route description to the FCC and have copied it below. This should help clarify things. In addition, I will try to address some of your specific points here. Apologies for my verbosity, but you raised a number of good points that deserve a thorough response…

      Why cross other routes? The route climbs a natural dyke feature that runs across the entire upper headwall — splitting the headwall from the lower left to the upper right. (The strips of yellow liken that characterize the dyke can actually be seen from outer space… not really, but you can see the yellow line from town if you look closely). This is the natural and logical line, and makes for great climbing that feels steep, with hands on the protruding dyke and feet underneath. That said, I did try to find an alternative exit that wouldn’t impede the existing routes. I first tried exits to the left of Sea of Joy. When that failed I looked for an exit between Sea of Joy and Archaeopteryx. I spent seven days exploring variations on the face, but ultimately the only line that I found feasible was the natural line that climbs the entirety of the dyke.

      How does this proposal affect Archaeopteryx? I have great respect for Jeff Achey, Roger Briggs, and their bold and historic climb on this wall. I therefore agree that a new sport route should not impact Archaeopteryx. It’s hard to see in the picture, but the top of Archaeopteryx is very low angle and forms a corner, with the left side of the corner being the steep headwall. (Archaeopteryx actually climbs to the right of where the route is drawn in the guide that the picture is taken from). The last bolt on the proposed route will be up and left of this slab and corner, and well out of reach from Archaeopteryx. Also, the two crux sections of the final Archaeopteryx pitch are well below, and the finish is much easier (~5.9) with some natural protection available. I didn’t think it would make sense or create a temptation to leave that easy slab with gear near by and move out left onto the steep headwall and 5.12 ground to reach a bolt. Jeff and Roger agreed when we discussed.

      Is there better potential on the headwalls out right? Brett Ruckman and I thought there was great potential out right as well. We thought we saw at least three routes. However, after three days exploring this area, between the two of us we didn’t find anything that we thought was worthy of bolting. One line came very close, but there was a 5-10 foot blank section. Another line looked like it would go up a steep corner, but on closer inspection the corner was closed and few holds could be found. Maybe someone with a better eye and bigger guns will find a line there someday, but we were stymied. In any case, I had already inspected and decided on the line across the upper headwall dyke that I call The Yellow Door. Here’s the route description that was missing from the initial post:

      The proposed route, The Yellow Door, is a two-pitch route located on the North face of Seal Rock that climbs across two natural features – a long arching roof on the first pitch, and a prominent dyke that splits the middle of the North face headwall and forms the second pitch. The first pitch starts at the very lower left corner of the north face and climbs thin vertical ground up and right for ~70’ under a long roof before pulling over the roof and finishing on a slab. This pitch is long and continuous, with a pump factor at the roof (11+/12-, ~100 ft). The second pitch climbs up to and traverses across a yellow dyke that extends across the full expanse of Seal Rock’s North face headwall (visible from the city of Boulder). This pitch is also long, continuous and pumpy, with several difficult and technical sections (13-, ~100ft). Because the second pitch climbs on a dyke feature (hands on the protruding dyke, feet underneath), it feels steep and climbs like a modern sport climb until the dyke ends and the climb exits on the final ~15’ slab of Archaeopteryx. Natural gear is used at the beginning of the first pitch and end of the second pitch. For those looking for a pure sport climbing pitch, it will be possible to finish the second pitch of Yellow Door on Sea of Joy, climbing through the crux of that climb and adding a letter to the grade.

      1. steve annecone Avatar
        steve annecone

        Thanks for the thorough and well-thought comments and replies so far. Although difficult to do this time of year, we still have time for a field visit before the public meeting, if someone is psyched to get up there? I think it’s good and important to note that both sets of first ascentists of routes on that face are in favor of the proposal.

  3. Chris Beh Avatar
    Chris Beh

    There is a lot of real estate on the North Face of Seal but it is not very featured. Rapping off Sea of Joy it is pretty easy to see that nothing really finishes to the top of the wall or if it does it will be 14+ thin face. This proposal seems ok given that permission was given by the other route setters. I vote yes. Thanks for all the clarifications, Phil.

  4. Brian Crim Avatar
    Brian Crim

    Is this the route that some guy was using a hammer to knock “loose rocks” off the face this last summer? Seems kind of dumb to be hammering blocks off the face just to help you create a proposed new route.

    1. Phil Gruber Avatar
      Phil Gruber

      Brian, it’s not uncommon for new routes in the flatirons to require some cleaning. There was loose rock on the first half of the first pitch and on the belay ledge that represented a danger to future climbers. Aside from removing these loose flakes, nothing on the route was modified, and the rest of the route was very solid and clean.

  5. Jon Sargent Avatar
    Jon Sargent

    This proposal sounds like a good route, and a nice addition to the North Face of Seal Rock. I appreciate the detailed description and communication with other route setters. I vote yes.

  6. Rob Eison Avatar
    Rob Eison

    I echo Chris Beth’s sentiments and feel the Yellow Door is a worthy addition to the north face of Seal Rock, which is a beautiful but, unfortunately, sparsely featured wall. I know Phil put a lot of time, thought, and effort into this proposal and I vote yes as well.

  7. Matt Samet Avatar
    Matt Samet

    Thanks for clarifying and adding further info to the application, Phil! This helps me get my head around it much better. I have never climbed Sea of Joy but have done Archaeopteryx, and knowing that the Yellow Door crosses into Archaeopteryx much higher on the pitch than I was imagining does change my opinion — yes, if you’re coming in on the easier, better protected ground up high, then that makes much more sense. Also knowing that one would have to leave decently protected 5.9 terrain and head up into 5.12 to reach any of those bolts is good to know as well — no climber would ever do that or have a reason to. I rescind my initial comment and would like to say that this looks like a great addition to the Flatirons and to Seal Rock. Thanks for the dialogue!

  8. Joe Collins Avatar
    Joe Collins

    This looks like a fantastic addition to Flatirons climbing and is supported by the first ascensionists of the other routes on the face. I would vote yes.

  9. kevin murphy Avatar
    kevin murphy

    Thanks for the breakdown. Looks like it will be a great addition.

  10. Joseph Crotty Avatar
    Joseph Crotty

    Phil, thanks for clarifying the pitch grades (i.e., P1 11+/12-, ~100 ft, P2 13-, ~100ft), potential impact to other routes, variants exploration, etc.

    Looks like a great addition to the wall and w/ a clear sign off from both FFA parties it’s a very strong endorsement. Thank you for doing the leg work.

    Yes!

  11. beth bennett Avatar
    beth bennett

    i vote yes, finding a new feature/weakness on this amazing wall is a worthwhile effort.

  12. Chandler Van Schaack Avatar
    Chandler Van Schaack

    Like Matt, I was initially somewhat skeptical; however, after reading all of the comments and the thoughtful response from the applicant, I agree that the route seems like it was well thought out and will not negatively impact the existing routes on the wall. I vote yes.

Leave a Reply

—

by

in , , , ,