Red Arete

Route Description

The proposed route has 4 new pitches of climbing that include 1 pitch of slabby 5.10, and 3 pitches of steep 5.13 climbing.

To avoid affecting the historic climbs on the lower section of the wall, the proposed climb starts with the first pitch of Red Dihedral (5.6, 80’). The first new pitch of climbing is a slab that climbs up the wide expanse between Red Dihedral and Boxcar Willie (P1: 5.10, 60’)

The climbing gets interesting on the next pitch, which is severely overhanging with several volume type features at different angles (P2: ~5.13-, 50’). The climb continues up overhanging rock through overhanging flakes, over the lip, and then up an arete feature (P3: ~5.13, 70’). The final pitch may be the hardest, with a boulder problem entry to a thin and steep arete (P4: ~5.13, 60’).

Route diagram

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Existing route information

There are numerous routes on Mickey Mouse Wall that are well documented in Steve Lavin’s “Eldorado Canyon, A Climber’s Guide”. The established routes include a mix of trad and sport. Routes in the immediate vicinity include:
13: Asahi (5.10c, trad/bolted)

14: Perilous Journey (5.11c, trad)

15: Krystal Klyr (5.11a, trad)

19: Red Dihedral (5.12d trad)

20: Stigmata (5.13b, trad/bolted)

21: Boxcar Willie (5.11a sport)

22: The Green Dihedral (5.7+, trad)

23: Plane Geometry (5.12b, mostly bolted)

24: Leap of Faith (5.12a, trad)

25: Simian’s Way (5.10 trad)

26: Mighty Mouse (5.12a bolted)

64: Three Mouseketeers (5.11c bolted)
The attached photo gives an indication of the distance of these climbs from the proposed route. Thanks to Steve Lavin for use of this photo.

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Approach

The approach to Mickey Mouse Wall is well documented on Mountain Project. Here is an excerpt:

To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo and turn left on County Road 67 (paved) right before the town. Go about 300 yards to a locked gate. Park here.

Hike up the maintained gravel road, avoiding a left after about 0.5 mile, and continue through a rock cut. Continue hiking up the road aka “Fowler Trail” avoiding a few single track trails heading off to the right. Continue hiking up the road avoiding roads that go off to the right up to the Conda Quarry. At an intersection with a road and a gate on the right continue straight onto a double track for about 100 feet and then take a right onto a single track.

Continue on the single track avoiding a left single track aka “Goshawk Ridge Trail” all the way to the train tracks.

When you arrive at the tracks, turn left and walk along the east side of the tracks towards the tunnel (tunnel 6). About 20 feet before the tunnel, take a faint trail up the dirt berm on the left.

The wall is immediately on the other side of the tunnel. Please DO NOT go through the tunnel. You will climb approximately 200 feet contouring uphill to skirt around the east side of the tunnel, generally paralleling the direction of the tracks. Eventually you will crest the ridge and start descending, continuing to contour around the ridge until you arrive back at the tracks. Promptly cross the tracks and continue towards the wall on the southwest side of the tracks. There is a very poor trail right under the wall, and big talus (preferable) a little to the left. Hike up to your route.

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Descent

The descent is via lowering off the route.

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Climb base area

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Reconnaissance work

Yes. The route has been thoroughly inspected, and several options have been explored to find the best line.

Top Roped / Hazards

The route has been top-roped/rope-soloed as much as possible given the severe nature of the climb. The middle section of the route is too steep to top-rope.

Additional notes

We’re excited about this wild line!

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FCC Voting Results

Approved

OSMP Decision

Approved